I recently took on an interesting project to install a dedicated lithium battery to power our boat’s bow thruster and anchor windlass. I’m pleased to share the experience with you.
Previously, these systems ran off the starter AGM batteries and alternator, but I wanted to experiment with a dedicated power source. I got my hands on a 460 amp-hour lithium battery from Vatrer, equipped with a 300-amp battery management system (BMS) capable of handling continuous loads and likely surging up to 600 amps. To test its performance, I decided to keep the existing setup and add a switch, allowing me to toggle between the old AGM system and the new lithium battery. This way, I can see if the lithium can handle the heavy motor loads.
*Fair Disclosure* I received the product as a complimentary review sample. However, I received no monetary compensation and have complete editorial control of the content.
Vatrer 460Ah Battery Disassembly and Installation Video
I started by cracking open the battery to check out its build. Inside, I found eight robust lithium cells, neatly glued balance leads, and a sturdy metal case with fiberboard protection. The design impressed me—lock nuts, nyllock nuts, and a tidy lead dress with heat shielding. It even has an on/off switch, a Bluetooth board with a small antenna for signal clarity, and vents for cooling. One thing to note: it’s not waterproof, so I chose a dry spot in the bow for installation.
Next, I rewired the system at the boat’s front. The existing setup had two AGM batteries in the engine bay, powering the bow thruster through long, previously unfused cables. Last year, I added a 500-amp fuse for the starter and another for the alternator to improve safety. For the new setup, I installed the lithium battery in the V-berth, shortening the cable run significantly to reduce voltage drop. Lithium batteries maintain voltage better under load, so I expect improved motor performance. I added a 300-amp slow-blow fuse for safety and a two-way switch to alternate between the AGM and lithium systems. I also upgraded the windlass wiring, moving its breaker and shortening its run for better efficiency.
Testing time! Using the battery’s Bluetooth app, I monitored the current draw while running the windlass and bow thruster. Both worked smoothly, and the app provided detailed stats like charge percentage, voltage, and cell balance. To keep the battery charged, I installed a DC-to-DC charger that pulls from the alternator, plus a plug-in charger for shore power or inverter use. I’m also considering a small solar charger for future flexibility.
The installation isn’t fully polished yet—I still need to secure the battery with a frame and straps, and I’m using some temporary copper lugs (marine-grade nickel-coated ones are on my list). I also made custom cables with a hydraulic crimper, heat-shrink tubing, and anti-corrosion paste for durability.
Overall, I’m excited about the potential of this lithium battery setup. The motors seem to run stronger, and I’ll share more updates once we’re out on the water. Next up, I’m tackling more electrical upgrades and repainting the bilge for a new battery box. Stay tuned for a complete schematic and system overview!
Related Links:
- Vatrer Website
- Vatrer 460Ah Amazon USA
- Vatrer 460Ah Amazon CA
- Boating Repairs, Upgrades, and Mod Playlist
Bow Thruster Update
Longer Term Review Update – Vatrer 460Ah – Marine Usage
I’m back with an update on the Vatrer 460 amp-hour lithium battery after its second season on the boat. I originally planned to use it for the bow thruster but switched it over as house bank number two since it didn’t quite hit the peak amps I needed.
This year I’ve been running it as my primary off-grid house battery, cycling it down to around 30 percent and back up to full while charging at up to 100 amps and discharging near 150 amps. It’s handled everything without any issues, and the Bluetooth app has worked solidly.
I decided to open it up and check for corrosion since it lives in the old lead-acid battery box in the engine compartment. Temps have stayed reasonable, never really above 80 or 90 degrees, and there’s been no water exposure. Everything inside looks just as good as it did a year and a half ago. No corrosion, cells still tight in their metal brackets, nylock nuts and Loctite still holding, BMS and terminals clean, and the cells are staying perfectly balanced.
