An RV maintenance tip reminding you to check your RVs nuts and bolts for proper torque. I often check critical areas to ensure none of the nuts and bolts have come loose. It is also a good time to visually inspect things looking for corrosion or damage. A little preventative maintenance can ward off a bad day on the road if something loose gives way.
Over the years, I’ve acquired the necessary wrenches and sockets. From the parts manuals, I created a list of the specific torque settings required. It’s handy to do the work myself rather than count on others. I have peace of mind that the job is done right.
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My RVs Critical Torque Settings & Socket Size
Pin Box – 15/16 socket Torque 5/8” bolts to 160 ft-lbs minimum.
Fifth Wheel Hitch – 21mm 100 ft-lbs
Truck Wheels – 7/8 socket 130 ft-lbs
Trailer Wheels – 13/16 socket 110-120 ft-lbs
Fifth Wheel Land Legs – 3/8 socket 10-18 ft-lbs
1/2″ Axle U-clamps – 3/4 socket 50 ft-lbs
Equalizer and Shackle Nuts – 13/16 socket 30-50 ft-lbs
Brake to Axle Nuts – 11/16 socket 45-70 ft-lbs
Axle Hub Castle Nut – 1 1/2 socket 50 ft-lbs
*Castle Nut Torque Procedure
1. Castle nut should be torqued to 50 ft-lbs. Hub will rotate during this process.
2. Loosen the castle nut to back off the torque.
3. Tighten castle nut finger tight until snug.
4. Insert cotter pin. If the cotter pin does not line up with the hole, back castle nut up slightly until the pin can be inserted.
5. Bend the cotter pin over to lock the nut in place. The nut should be free to move with only the cotter pin keeping it in place.
Lippert Axles, Chassis, and Suspension Quick Reference
